The Circle of Life (but mostly fashion)
Do you remember those early Saturday morning rises? The smell of your morning toast, with an old boxy CRT television flickering the flannel clad cigarette-core style of our alt icons on ABC’s Rage? Or even sitting cross legged on the floor gazing at the skin-tight denim under layers of bold patterns and half-zipped hoodies of Y2K’s favourite Disney characters? Like a photograph frozen in time, these eras are immortalised and have become rich resources for our best means of expression today; our fashion. It is said that style follows the 20-year rule, an assertion that every twenty-or-so years a particular trend will find new life. Looking back on our shared cultural nostalgia, is it a shock that emulating the popular style of our formative memories provides us a sense of comfort and belonging? The subtle symbols we picked up on as a child beckon our sense of familiarity and ultimately become the biggest contributor to our identity. Whether you grew up on grunge, EDM, or The Devil Wears Prada, your fashion sense has an unwavering connection to nostalgia.
TUMBLR V. GRUNGE
The iconic 2014 Tumblr-Grunge style was the epitome of alternative fashion at the time, merging the ‘90s grunge movement with influences of modern emo. As a music-based movement, ‘90s grunge fashion was entwined with the music. So, when Tumblr discovered Nirvana, they discovered grunge fashion. Drawn to emulating our parents as we listened to the music they did, we began to look like them as well.
Grunge was changed in the ‘90s, moving away from casual rock enjoyers, to a counter-culture movement. People craved imperfection, something completely different from the overly-filtered early days of social media.
Authentic grunge meant thrift shopping for clothes, wearing your shoes until they fell apart and raiding your dad’s closet for oversized flannel shirts.
Many 2010s Tumblr users took inspiration from Courtney Love, who defined late grunge by the clashing of femininity and hard rock. Staple looks were harsh black eyeliner, smudged blood-red lipstick, ripped tights, satin slip dresses, Doc Martens and oversized leather jackets. 2010s model Sky Ferreira became the basis of this look, never seen without smudged eyeliner and a plaid shirt.
However, grunge became less about music and more about style, which eased the transition of adopting some early 2000s emo/scene elements into the fashion. Black, skinny jeans; checkerboard print and band T-Shirts - most notably Nirvana - became the go-to look. In any such case, the late 2010s grunge fashion took a return to the ‘90s, with baggy and oversized clothing and the rising trend of thrifting.
The ‘90s to 2010s grunge pipeline wasn’t perfect, with the movement itself being lost in the fashion at times, but through it all, It Smells Like Teen Spirit lives on.
RAVE FASHION AND EDM
Rave culture is all about being yourself in an environment where it’s encouraged and celebrated. It’s therefore no wonder the scene has been a canvas for expressive fashion ever since the early ‘90s.
If we’re talking rave, Frankie Bones will surely follow, “the Godfather of American Rave Culture”, a pioneer who solidified rave as a celebration of dance music and most importantly the Peace, Love, Unity, Respect (PLUR) concept which is exemplified by one raver as “finding a phone/wallet at an event and turning it in to lost and found”.
Entering the 2000s, rave fashion was characterised by its neon palettes, futurism and DIY. An extension of the ethos was the exchange of kandi items, usually handmade bracelets. The 2020s have seen a similar unity within music fanbases, most notably during Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour, borrowing a version of kandi to spawn a trend of tradeable, wearable friendship bracelets.
Thanks to EDM prodigies Skrillex, Aviici, Calvin Harris and the like, the culture was catapulted towards the mainstream. Dance floors and festivals began to reflect more literal interpretations of PLUR. Flower crowns and patterned shirts were prevalent reminders of the newfound sunny festival setting for the scene.
There’s no denying that the 2020s have brought about a darker, more intense rave aesthetic inspired by BDSM and European nightclubs, but the emphasis on individuality remains a nostalgic reminder of the roots of rave’s influence on fashion.
Coming together on a dancefloor and celebrating unity in uniqueness is at the core of the culture.
2024 in rave fashion is an amalgamation of bright and dark, futuristic and nostalgic, sexy and scary, all while referencing its sentimental origins.
THE REEMERGENCE OF THE OFFICE SIREN
The origin of the Office Siren aesthetic, which emerged in the early 2000s, represents a fusion of sophisticated and fashionable components that embody confidence and elegance in a professional setting. Iconic characters like Serena from The Devil Wears Prada, portrayed by Gisele Bündchen, and Rachel Green from Friends during her time as a corporate personal shopper, epitomise this look with their stylish monochrome blazers, tailored bottoms, and subtly unbuttoned shirts. The Office Siren look draws inspiration from the minimalist designs of ‘90s and ‘00s Calvin Klein office clothing. It features stylish eyewear and sleek buns, projecting an elegant and commanding image.
The Office Siren look is all about making a bold statement with your eyes. Start with neutral eyeshadow, grey or white, and blend it seamlessly across your eyelids, extending it to your crease and brow bone for a touch of drama. Apply a sharp winged eyeliner and line your waterline with the darkest shade available, then finish with generous amounts of black mascara on both top and bottom lashes. For the lips, create an ombre effect by outlining them with a brown lip liner, applying a matte nude lipstick, and topping it off with a glossy layer for a little extra shine. The quintessential accessory for this look is a pair of Bayonetta glasses, characterised by their small, narrow, rectangular frames, popularised by it-girls like Bella Hadid, as well as celebrities like Billie Eilish and Doja Cat showcasing them at the Oscars and Grammys.
One of my favourite movies, Mike Nichols's 1988 film Working Girl, depicts the transformation of Tess McGill, a secretary, as she exchanges her 1980s office clothing - mini-skirts, teased hair, bulky sweaters, and white Reebok trainers - for sophisticated skirts, suits and pumps while climbing the corporate ladder. One of the lines in the film, perfectly summarises the Office Siren.
“Dress shabbily and they notice the dress. Dress impeccably, and they notice the woman.”
The Office Siren epitomises a contemporary feminist reimagining of corporate fashion from the early 2000s as well as the 1980s.
CONCLUSION
In a world where we are constantly surrounded by the signs and symbols of a previous era, with our identity being made up of everything that has come before us, it is no surprise that we find ourselves most comfortable in another time. The 20-year rule has us breathing new life into old styles trying to capture that sweet and elusive sedative named nostalgia. Whether it's an affinity for grunge music, or a yearning for an HR write-up, our chase to recreate the styles we have grown up on are what makes us unique. The past will always be with us, and it's your turn to make it yours.
See Issue 3: Perspectives